石榴籽·同心圆 | 满族：一针一线承古韵
中国有四大名绣：苏绣、蜀绣、粤绣、湘绣，不少民族也有自己的特色刺绣，其中，“满族刺绣”你了解吗？
China is home to four major embroidery styles: Suzhou embroidery, Sichuan embroidery, Cantonese embroidery, and Hunan embroidery. Many ethnic groups also have their own distinctive embroidery traditions. Among these is the embroidery of the Manchu people, which you may find interesting.
满族人的祖先靠游牧渔猎为生，满绣最初是绣在粗布和皮革上的，是每家每户给自己的打猎用具绣上的独特“标记”。而户外打猎，衣物特别容易破损，怎么办呢？聪明的满族先民就用绣补的方式，增强衣服的耐用性。后来逐渐从实用修补演变为兼具艺术美感的装饰，绣制出丰富的花纹图案。到了清朝时，甚至用于绣制龙锦、凤袍、官服……图案堆叠立体、疏密有致、流光溢彩！
The ancestors of the Manchu people relied on nomadic herding, fishing and hunting for their livelihoods. Manchu embroidery was originally done on coarse fabric and leather, serving as unique marks sewn onto hunting tools by each household. With outdoor hunting leading to frequent wear and tear of clothing, the resourceful Manchu ancestors used embroidery as mending to enhance the durability of their garments. Over time, this practical repair method evolved into an artistic decoration, producing intricate patterns and designs. By the Qing Dynasty, Manchu embroidery was even used for official ornate garments such as dragon-pattern robes, phoenix-pattern gowns, and official attire, featuring layered and textured patterns that shimmered with a vibrant array of colors.
但更具特色的其实是满族的民间刺绣。它们常常出现在衣帽、肚兜、虎头鞋、荷包等日常用品之上，还与婚俗紧密相连——姑娘出嫁前会精心绣制“枕头顶儿”作为嫁妆。和这个民族的性格一样，满族刺绣古朴天真、粗犷豪放，图案活泼可爱，以抽象夸张的手法使得个性特征更加突出。
The most distinctive form is actually the folk embroidery of the Manchu people. It often appears on everyday items such as hats, aprons, tiger-head shoes, and pouches, and is closely linked to marriage customs -- young women meticulously embroider pillow tops as part of their dowry before marriage. Reflecting the character of this ethnic group, Manchu embroidery is simple, naive, bold, and expressive, featuring lively patterns that emphasize individuality through abstract and exaggerated designs.
满族刺绣也深受中国各地区和各民族刺绣的影响。在色彩运用上，既保留满族对红、绿、黄等亮色的偏爱，又与苏绣中展现颜色渐变的“退晕法”调和，将热烈奔放与典雅细腻融为一体；图案纹样中也同样有很多围绕“福禄寿喜财”的“谐音梗”，传递人们对美好生活的向往。
Manchu embroidery has also been influenced by the embroidery traditions of various regions and ethnic groups in China. Its use of color reflects a Manchu preference for bright hues such as red, green, and yellow, while also incorporating the “shading technique” from Suzhou embroidery, which features gradual color transitions. This fusion unites vibrant expressiveness with elegant refinement. Additionally, many of the patterns include homophones centered around themes of “fortune, prosperity, longevity, joy, and wealth,” conveying a universal aspiration for a better life.
如今，以满绣制作的旗袍、颈枕、手包、胸针，新一代传承人正带着这份珍贵技艺，让这门古老艺术在新时代焕发更耀眼的光彩。
Today, Manchu embroidery has made its way onto Chinese traditional Qipao dress, neck pillows, exquisite handbags, and brooches. A new generation of inheritors are bringing this precious craftsmanship to life and allowing this ancient art to shine even brighter in the new era.
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